Wednesday, 11 December 2013

Brake system Test, Gear Cables and Sound Deadening

So first of all I filled up both brake reservoirs and tested the system, good news no major leaks, just a couple on the calliper where the union needed to be done a little tighter but all T joints and other joints did not leak so that was good. I still have air in the system but the idea of this was to prove there was no leaks so when I get to the later stage of the build I will use a hydraulic pull to remove the last of the air. Overall very happy though!

Next was the gear cables being extended. What you will need is;

* M6 threaded rod, roughly 2x 50cm will be plenty
*  2 threaded female unions.

The first thing to do is to cut and extend the mounting piece like below

You will see the back has been placed further behind. Next take the two gears cables, one will have a threaded bolt on it, this end will simply screw off.Once screwed off put the threaded rod into the main length of the cable it will just twist in till you cant twist it any more. As shown in the below picture.

the next stage needs to be quite accurate to make sure the full gear movement is available.  Push the cable / rod all the way in and then ensure the gear lever is also leaning backwards, with the other piece you unscrewed earlier attached to the gear stick this will give you the length to cut to and you can then thread the end back on and attach, dont forget the little extra to go inside the union!

The 2nd rod is not as simple but not overly difficult in terms of the project, the rod will need to be cut so the loop end is now off the main rod and the threaded rod welded on to it. As well as this the other female union should be welded to the loop that you just cut off (shown in pics above). Then again the same process should be followed ensuring that the gear lever is as far forward or back (please be aware you will need to hold it when measuring) and the union put on, the union gives you a bit of leeway in fitting and afterwards when measuring the 2 rods they should be the same length for the extension.

Then the first stage of the sound deadening arrived. To be honest I didn't realise how important the material choices were and I must thank Silent coat for helping me with getting the right bits for the right areas whilst weight being a consideration, I think the car will sound solid and keep out road noise well!

So the first was the dampening mat, which is commonly associated with improving the noise from sound systems. So I've started to fit that on the passenger side where I'm sure only 1 or two more holes will be needed and so will be easy to work with. the first layer of matting does not need to cover the whole panel, however I have done so as being a kitcar I'm not improving what is already there I'm actually putting just the first sound dampening in.

It was very easy to cut with a Stanley knife, a little tip, to stop the product sticking to the knife just wipe down the knife with some WD40, not loads just a wipe you'll get plenty of cuts with nothing sticking to the knife.

Eagle eye people will notice the seat belt mounting anchorages would fail how they are, nuts will be welded to the bottom of them at some point with the dampening protected.

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